Understanding Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreens

Welcome to our deep dive into the intriguing world of sunscreens! Today, we’ll explore the complex science behind how sunscreens protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation. If you are concerned about your skin health while in the sun, you’ve likely considered whether mineral vs chemical sunscreen is more protective. In truth, these two types of sunscreens each come with their own distinct pros and cons. In this article, we’ll break down the science into simple, digestible pieces. With the right sun protection insights, you can decide whether mineral vs chemical sunscreen is the best choice for you.

What is Chemical Sunscreen?

Chemical sunscreens, often termed organic sunscreens (in the chemical sense), contain carbon-based molecules such as avobenzone, octocrylene, and homosalate. According to the principle of energy conservation, energy is never lost; it simply changes form. This principle is elegantly applied by sunscreen molecules. Think of them as tiny refineries, absorbing UV energy and transforming it into forms that won't contribute to skin cancer or accelerate aging. It's a remarkable process that leverages nature's laws to protect our skin. These molecules start calm and collected on your skin but when struck by UV light of the right wavelength, their electrons absorb this energy, making the molecule excited and unstable. To regain stability, the molecule emits energy, often in different forms such as heat or lower energy light, before returning to its calm state. This cycle keeps going, offering ongoing protection from UV light. The released energy can manifest as heat, visible light, or other forms. While most sunscreen molecules can recover and continue this process, some may break down irreversibly (a state known as being photounstable), diminishing their effectiveness over time. That's why sunscreen scientists work hard to make formulas that stay effective for longer, keeping our skin safe from sun damage.

What is Mineral Sunscreen?

Mineral sunscreens, sometimes referred to as physical or inorganic, mainly consist of two ingredients: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. There used to be a wide belief, based on the 1978 FDA monograph, that these substances functioned merely by scattering UV rays. This notion was later dismissed in the 1999 revision, as scientific studies have continuously shown that they also absorb UV radiation—much like chemical sunscreens. Yet, the misconception of solely scattering UV rays persists like many myths. Although inorganic, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide operate similarly to organic sunscreens. They contain electrons which can absorb UV energy, becoming excited to a higher state. As the electrons return to their lower energy state, they release the absorbed energy as heat, infrared (IR), and sometimes visible light or less harmful UV rays.
While the absorbance due to electron energy level transitions accounts for roughly 95% of the protection in mineral sunscreens, scattering constitutes the remaining percentage. Scattering is when the UV light hits a particle and is redirected, often forward rather than backward. This doesn't mean increased skin exposure since many of these redirected rays encounter another sunscreen particle and undergo further absorption or scattering.

Key Similarities and Differences Between Mineral and Chemical Sunscreen?

Protection Mechanism

Both chemical and mineral sunscreens absorb and convert UV rays, additionally mineral sunscreens reflect and scatter some sunlight. 


Ingredients:

Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, while chemical sunscreens utilize various carbon-based compounds.


Onset of Protection:

There's a myth that chemical sunscreens need early application to "activate" and bind to the skin, but this isn't true. Both organic and inorganic sunscreens are effective immediately; they even work when applied to substances like glass, a method used to estimate SPF levels. However, right after application, some of the sunscreen may evaporate or absorb into the skin, leaving behind a thin protective film through a process known as de-emulsification. That’s why SPF testing is measured after waiting for 15 minutes for the sunscreen to dry down. Therefore, it's recommended to wait 15 minutes after application to properly dry so that wet sunscreen doesn’t transfer and actually provides full labeled protection.


Impact on Skin:

Skin irritations can result from how different products and ingredients interact with your skin, leading to clogged pores. This interaction varies greatly among individuals due to factors like genetics, diet, the composition of your skin oil, and the types of microbes on your skin. Therefore, it cannot be determined that one sunscreen ingredient is gentler than another, especially considering that sunscreens have several inactive ingredients as well.

Note, at Sonrei we formulate both our chemical and physical sunscreens without any known irritants such as fragrances, parabens, or gluten.

Mineral Sunscreen vs. Chemical Sunscreen: Which One to Choose?


Ease of application and cosmetic appearance: 

Mineral sunscreens often leave a white cast on the skin, particularly those containing titanium dioxide. This effect is partly because these sunscreens function by reflecting light away from the skin, and the active ingredients are naturally white. Also, they tend to be thicker and harder to rub in. Chemical sunscreens tend to be lighter and easier to apply with no white cast.


Environmental impact:

The debate surrounding the effects of Oxybenzone on coral reefs stems from a study conducted in artificial conditions, which does not conclusively prove its harm to coral at the levels found in natural bodies of water. The primary culprits of coral bleaching are identified as climate change-related marine heatwaves and increased water temperatures, alongside industrial-based runoff. With the reef facing threats from climate change, coastal development, and pollution, focusing on sunscreen oversimplifies the issue. Sunscreen remains essential for skin protection, and the environmental science community emphasizes the importance of addressing broader environmental challenges threatening the reef.

Note, that Sonrei’s chemical sunscreens are formulated without Oxybenzone for other reasons.

Choose Sonrei for your Sunscreen Needs

To wrap up our exploration of mineral versus chemical sunscreens, the key takeaway is simple: the best sunscreen for you depends on your unique needs, including budget, skin type, and specific skin concerns, sensitivity, allergies, and ease of application. Regardless of the type you choose, aim for a high level of protection—broad-spectrum SPF 30+ water resistance are ideal.
We trust that this discussion has shed light on the differences between sunscreen ingredients and has helped you make an informed decision. For a diverse range of sunscreen options that cater to various needs, consider exploring Sonrei’s complete lineup.

July 16, 2024 — Kaya Patel

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